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The YUGIOH HOLO PULL THREAD!!!

  • Thread starter Gaara_EATS_pies
  • Start date
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Gaara_EATS_pies

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As always, this thread is started off with the most up to date HoloPull.doc we have:

First and foremost, HoloPull.doc in its updated glory:

Table of Contents:
A. Holo-Pulling with a Pocket Scale
B. The Law of Averages (and why 24 v. 36 count boxes are important)
C. Erroneous Packs
D. People who won't let you weigh
E. Defending Your Position and Actions
F. Some real life scale experiences you can learn from
G. Weight Differences
H. Non-Weighable Prizes
I. Advice from an anonymous scale user
J. Blister Packs
K. Tournament Packs
L. The Stupid Trick Sold on eBay
M. OldWillKnott – your best friend (WHERE TO BUY YOUR SCALE)
N. The Gap Trick (contributed by TheMan_KQJ – a poor man’s alternative to the pocket scale)
O. The Freezer Trick (contributed by Chaos Servent, VERIFIED)
P. Ultimate Rares
Q. The Pojo.com scaler territory
R. No Scale, No Sale!

A. Holo-Pulling with a Pocket Scale:

1. Go to eBay and buy a pocket scale. (I use the MX-200) (For more on buying a scale, go down to Section K)

2. Go to stores and ask if they allow you to weigh packs. If not, leave promptly, and if they are rude about it, get your friends to boycott the store. (The boycotting does not apply to card shops, they either want it to be completely random for other customers or weigh the packs themselves and don't want anyone to know.)

Toy stores (Kay-Bee Toys, FuncoLand, GameStop, Electronics Boutique) and convenience stores (Uni-Mart, CoGo's, 7-11, Eckerd) work best. Convenience stores work especially well because the majority of the employees will not care what you do, as long as you don't break/steal anything.

Note that blister packs (these are the ones encased in cardboard that will most likely be hanging on walls) are unwieldy. On information on weighing these, see Section I below.

3. Weigh each pack out of the set you desire to purchase from. Do not mix sets -- they weigh differently from each other. If you wish to purchase from multiple sets, weigh each set separately. (e.g. do all your Pharaonic Guardian weighing, then your Legacy of Darkness weights, and so on.)

Note: Once you remove a pack from the scale, it may still say it has 0.1 grams or -0.1 grams on it. If that doesn't go away after a second or two, put the pack back on, then take it back off. Do this repeatedly until it says 0.0. Either that, or turn the scale off and back on. Using the “TARE†function can mess you up a bit, if EVER so slightly (although it hasn’t hurt me when I did it, it was still a risk.)

4. Sort the packs into piles based on their weight, in 0.1 gram increments. (For example, all of your packs that weigh 13.3 grams in one pile, your 13.4 gram packs in another, then your 13.5, and so on.)

5. Compare the packs and set aside all packs from the TOP TWO TENTHS OF A GRAM. (For example, if there are packs that weigh 13.3, 13.4, 13.5, 13.6, and 13.7 grams respectively -- note that these are the correct weights for a run of 1st edition Pharanoic Guardian packs -- set aside the 13.6 and 13.7 gram packs.)

6. DOUBLE-CHECK THE PACKS YOU SET ASIDE. The way you put the pack on the scale, its position on the scale, etc. could affect the packs by a tenth of a gram or so. Nothing would be more aggravating than buying a 13.6 gram pack that's actually a 13.5 gram pack and getting a Normal Rare.

7. Buy all the packs that are still in the top .2 grams. Remember to THANK THE CASHIER or person who let you weigh the packs. If you're polite about it, and don't take up too much time/counter space, you'll be more likely to be repeat the process the next time you go into the store.

8. All packs shall contain Super Rares or higher.

B. On The Law of Averages (and why 24 v. 36 count boxes are important)
This section will do several things for you, so read it will. It will make sure your scale is working, let you know when you have successfully cleaned everything out of a box, and, more often than not, make sure that you get the staples out of a set.

I’d first like to cover why 24 count boxes vs. 36 count boxes matter. If you’re new to this game, you’re probably thinking “Why would it matter? If I weigh through 3 24-pack boxes (72 packs) I’m going to get the same amount of holos as if I weigh through 2 36-pack boxes (72 packs).†Well, you’d be right – but the holos differ.

Most players know this already, but for those who don’t – the 2 Secret Rares are put into different kinds of boxes. One is only put into the 24-counts (which will always be the card numbered 000) and one is only put into the 36-counts (which has the number 1 higher than the total number of cards listed in the set – if the pack says there are 102 cards in the set, this card will be 103.)
During and after Pharaoh’s Servant, most of the 24-count boxes have better Secret Rares than the 36-counts. This is an attempt to encourage players to go to hobby shops and buy from them. To review the secret rare comparison:

Pharaoh’s Servant: Jinzo is the 24-count, Imperial Order is the 36-count. Both are great cards, but Jinzo is admittedly better.

Labyrinth of Nightmare: Gemini Elf is the 24-count, Magic Cylinder is the 36-count. Both were great cards in their time, and both were admittedly staples for Beatdown, but the focus was on Gemini Elf.

Legacy of Darkness: Yata-Garasu is the 24-count, Injection Fairy Lily is the 36-count. Yata is a million times better and is the head of one of the most infamous ways to win in the history of Yu-Gi-Oh, the Yata Lock. You WANT Yata more than IFL.

Pharaonic Guardian: Ring of Destruction is the 24-count, Lava Golem is the 36-count. Ring > Golem. Enough said.

Magician’s Force is a fluke in which both Secret Rares are not good in decks.

Dark Crisis: Vampire Lord is the 24-count, Judgment of Anubis is the 36-count. Vampire Lord has changed the Japanese game when it came out, JoA is merely a magic/trap protector with a built-in one-sided RoD that is hard to trigger.

Generally speaking, between Pharaoh’s Servant and Dark Crisis, players who obtained 3 of the hobby box Secret Rare and used all 3 in their Deck were superior to players who did not have those cards (excluding Magician’s Force). More often than not, the Hobby Secret Rare became restricted (Gemini didn’t, but Jinzo, Yata-Garasu, Ring of Destruction, V-Lord, and Chaos Emperor Dragon -- one per deck.)


Make friends with a hobby shop owner so that he or she will let you weigh packs, if at all possible. You want to have access to at LEAST one place that can give you guaranteed holos out of 24-pack boxes.

Next: Let’s go over the rarity scheme. Yes, that thing printed on the side of the box, telling you what the odds are on pulling cards.
Super Rares appear 1 in every 6 packs.
Ultra Rares appear 1 in every 12 packs.
Secret Rares are not posted, but are generally believed to be 1 in every 36 packs.

What does this mean for you?
In a 24-pack box:
There will be 0 or 1 Secret Rares.
There will be 2 Ultra Rares. (as they are 1 in 12. 24/12 = 2.)
There will be 4 Super Rares. (1 in 6. 24/6 = 4)

In a 36-pack box:
There will be 1 Secret Rare on average.
There will be 3 Ultra Rares. (36 / 12 = 3)
There will be 6 Super Rares. (36 / 6 = 6)

This means that if you happen to get to an unopened, fresh 24-count box, there should be either 6 or 7 heavy packs out of those 24 (the 4 Supers, 2 Ultras, and a possible Secret). If you get to an unopened 36-count box, there should be about 10 heavy packs out of those 36 (the 6 Supers, 3 Ultras, and 1 Secret Rare).

Examples:

Dark Crisis.

For the sake of this document, let's say you got to an UNOPENED box of Dark Crisis at a retail store. Retail boxes = 36 packs. You weigh all 36 packs, and the come out as follows:

13.1, 13.2, 13.3, 13.4, and 13.5. (The standard .5 grams of variation).

Majority of packs are in 13.2 and 13.3 (the Rares).

There are about 10 packs in the 13.4 and 13.5 piles combined.


If you encounter this scenario, it means you've done it right. There are the right amount of packs, so you know your scale is accurate. You plop down your $40 + tax, buy the 10 packs in the 13.4 and 13.5 piles, and take home 10 Dark Crisis holos.


Another example, but quicker this time:
You go to the tournament that I go to, or one like it. It's run in a hobby store. Winner gets to weigh out a box and get the holos from it. For the sake of this document, you won a tourney that week. You're dealing with a Magician's Force box...

13.0, 13.1, 13.2, 13.3, 13.4. (Standard variation).

Hobby boxes = 24 pack. Going to the 24-pack list above, there should be 6 or 7 packs in the 13.3 and 13.4 piles, and everything else should be lower.

You buy the 13.3 and 13.4 packs and "tap" (get all the holos from) the box.


C. On Erroneous Packs:

Sometimes a pack will weigh 1.0 or 1.1 grams more than normal. (A 14.6 gram pack where 13.6 constitutes holographic, for example.) These packs have 10 cards. I've seen them contain 1 rare and 9 commons...I've seen them contain 2 rares and 8 commons...I've literally watched a guy open a pack and pull TWO RING OF DESTRUCTIONS out of it. Most often it is 2 rares.

This part is a gamble. The entire point of the scale is to eliminate the factor of the Normal Rare. (Those of us who have scales are above that) If a pack weighs 1 gram more, typically you don't want to buy it. (Unless it's like 1.2 or 1.3 grams higher, then it's typically a double or triple holo or something and thus worth the risk)

D. On people who won't let you weigh:

You may be able to circumvent a place's no-weighing policy by either talking to or avoiding specific people. For example, the manager of a store may not let you do it, but typically won't go out of their way to tell the other employees about it. Just avoid the manager and you'll be fine.

Likewise, if a specific employee knows about the scale tactic they won't let you do it, just avoid them, or go to the manager and Solemn Judgment that employee. (By this, I mean you're trying to scale, the employee's telling you no, and the manager is overruling the employee and letting you -- that's just like playing a Magic, it getting Jammed, and the Solemning the Jammer. I've done this.)

Additionally, you can cost this store business by going through the procedures in the "No Scale, No Sale!" document, found below in Section R.

E. On Defending your Position and Actions:
Your biggest defense is the most common buyer. Typically at toy stores, little kids will buy packs more often than experienced players. This is even more true at convenience stores, where the kid will bug their mom/dad to buy them a pack on the way out.

These players are usually ripped out of their cards in bad trades -- trading them a bunch of rares or a super rare for their Ring/Yata/IFL/etc. If someone had to choose between them getting the cards and losing them in bad trades, or them never getting the cards in the first place, them never getting the cards is the lesser of the two evils, by far. (This is why card shops are usually avoided -- experienced players are the most common buyer there, and you would prevent someone else who pours money into packs from getting good cards, which may lead them to take their business elsewhere. However, keep in mind it is STILL important to get at least ONE hobby shop to let you weigh packs, so you can get the Hobby Secret Rare, as mentioned in section B above.)

F. Real Life Scaling Experiences
Some of you have had really good scaling experiences. Some have had horrible square-offs with employees, managers, and possibly worse. Hence, I'll leave you with some potential situations you could run into:

First, the good:
GameStop experiences by other Pojo scalers

An experience from Samurai Of Dawn:

Gamestop: Well, I decided to go down there for the heck of it. I didn't have any connections there, so it was a first over there. I walk in, checking out some titles, and went to the counter. I asked the worker if they had any RDS packs in (I explained to him that I was looking for boosters, not the Special edtion boxes.) It turns out, they had a new shipment in (SWEET GOLD!!) He asked me how many I was looking to buy, and I straight out asked him if I could scale them. He was like "what do you mean by that? A digital scale?" I replied to him saying yes. He asked his manager who was standing by his side, and both agreed. I mined out the whole box (23-24.)

Results for my packs: 4 packs weighed in at 13.3 (the rest weighed at 13.1-13.2, so I knew this was a gamble.)

I purchased all 4, and stood at the big counter (I was weighing the packs in a small area, so I moved to the bigger counter to re-weigh them.)

I asked the manager if I could re-weigh the packs just in case I missed any, and he said "sure man, not a problem." We got in a small conversation about how I do this, and if the weight make's any difference. I said "yeah it does. The higher the weight, the tendency it contains something good." He asked if the "good cards" are worth anything, and I told him " a few months back, I pulled a $40.00 dollar card, so that paid for the scale itself." He was amazed, and said "wow, that's awesome! I remember way back then when I bought baseball cards that had bubblegum inside." So we got into a friendly conversation about that. I noticed in the glass cabinet behind him was one display booster of RDS. I asked him if I could weigh that out. He said sure, and handed me the pack. Result #5: 13.4. I purchased it.

After a brief 15 minutes of talking about this, I showed him the pack that weighed 13.4. I pulled a holo and showed it to him. He was amazed at that. I told him it was a $15-$20.00 card. After I did all that, I got to know him a little better. I asked him that if they ever get anymore shipments in, or if I have the urge the scale some other packs, if it would be ok for me to scale in there often. He said "sure man, come whenever you feel like it. I work here often, so it's not a problem with me." After that and a brief exchange of names, I thanked both the worker and the manager, and causally left the store.



Another positive experience, from Corpse Maker:

I finally tried out a GameStop today. They had a box of RDS, a box of DB1, and a semi-filled box of SOD. Normally, I would have gone with RDS, but I needed another Horus 8 desperately, so I weighed the SOD box. I asked to see the box, and he handed it to me. I asked him if he would let me weigh, and he said "say what?†Obviously, he didn’t know what I meant so I explained it. He thought it was the smartest thing in the world. He called all the employees over and made them watch me (not because he was suspicious, but because he was curious and amazed. It was very slow anyway; me and my mom were the only people there.) I weighed out 4 holos and bought them. I opened them in front of the employees. My results:

Armed dragon lv7
Mobius
Greed
Ectoplasmer

They were amazed. I made good friends with the three employees. Their names were Jay, Chris, and Tony. I am going back once I get my next paycheck to weigh the DR1 box.

(ATTENTION GAMESTOP MANAGEMENT: Look here! A guy who buys a bunch of packs and plans to buy more packs from you, as long as he can weigh! Boosted sales! For those of you who are letting customers scale packs, good for you! For those of you who aren't, you have nothing to lose, and the possibility of sales of many more boxes of cards.


Now, for the potential scale run gone wrong, and how to deal with it...
My own personal Target experience:

I went to one of my local Target stores. A week ago, I had been to another target, and a gung-ho security guy named Mike told me I needed to stop because "it wasn't fair". I had already gotten through half of the packs, so I bought what I had weighed out and left. Apparently, Mike works at this Target as well and was prepared to remove me from the store if need be.

This time, I was here with my mother. She was not about to have someone being rude to me, specifically someone who says "and then people like you ruin it for everyone." So, she got the store manager, security manager, and this rent-a-cop, Mike, all over here and explained the situation.

My mother brought up very valid points -- I wasn't damaging the cards in any way, I wasn't opening any packs, and I wasn't taking anything. She made the analogy as to purchasing fruit -- people are allowed to examine fruit before they purchase it, and packs of cards should be no different...that packs of cards are not like a lottery, so no laws concerning tampering with the lottery apply to the cards. My mother was calm, cool, and collected as she told Mike what she really thought of him, saying "I think lower of any store that has hired you", and "if you are hiring people to be rude to customers, you got your money's worth." She cited names of managers who have told us there were no problems with weighing.

This story isn't over yet, as a follow-up call will be placed soon and another formal complaint lodged against the security guard.


Let this be a lesson to those who may possibly be stopped by an anti-scaling employee. Make sure to bring up that there is no product tampering or theft. The store manager likes big numbers in the sales column, so bring up that he's losing a sale (a rather large sale, as far as YGO cards are involved) every time he turns away a scaler. Do not get angry, but argue your points sharply.

Be prepared to go the distance -- phone calls, speaking with other managers, and showing that the employee was in the wrong with how they spoke to you could mean the difference between not being allowed to weigh at one location, or EVERYONE being allowed to weigh at ALL of them.



A new addition, brought to us by Yata-Garasu 1, both negative and positive:
Okay, well, not my favorite run...

I get to TRU and set down my scale, weigh out 2 heavy packs of DR1, then moved on to FET, 2 there as well. As I was weighing more FET, this employee comes over and says "Do you need help with something?" So I respond "No thank you," and the he says "Well, you can't do that." So I say "Why not?" and he said, "just buy your packs and leave!" He takes my 3 scaled FET and walks away. So I say "Excuse me! I'd like to have a word with your manager" Well, he stopped in his tracks and says that I should take my issues elsewhere. Well, now I'm pissed, I walk up to him and say "If you don't get your manager over here, you're not going to be happy when I have someone else get him for me." He replied: "Just scram, you ass." So I walk over to a cashier and ask for the manager, she politely gets him, I tell him "I'm apalled with his attitudeâ€Â, pointing to him. “I will not be shopping here anymore, I'll take my business to Target or Walmart" So he asks me to wait a minute and he talks to the jerk and comes back to say the problem was taken care of but I could only weigh on Saturday nights after 8, I thought that was reasonable, but then he tells me that I can have 4 packs, on the house  . So I put my 20 back in my pocket and take my four packs to the cashier and then just walk out without having to pay. So, yeah, if more problems occur I'll let you know to add TRU in Attelboro to the No Scale, No Sale file, but not for now.

DR1 - 30.2 == Breaker the Magical Warrior
DR1 - 30.5 == Question + Spirit Reaper
FET - 25.3 == Lightning Vortex
FET - 25.4 == Deck Devastation Virus

4/4 all free


G. On Weight Differences:

Pack weights differ between runs. 1st edition LoD differs from Unlimited LoD by .1 grams. Most 1st editions vary from their Unlimited counterparts. Make sure not to mix the two or you may error and buy a non-holo.

Pack weights differ between sets. From my personal experiences, PGD weighs between 13.3 and 13.7 grams...LoD weighs 13.2 to 13.6...LoN about the same as LoD...but PSV is radically different, ranging from 13.8 to 14.2.

Sometimes, pack weights differ between different boxes out of the same set, out of the same print run. I have seen first edition Magician’s Force be between 13.0 and 13.4 at one box and 13.1 to 13.5 out of another 1st edition Magician’s Force box.

H. On Non-Weighable Prizes:

Sometimes you may win packs at a tournament -- but since that tournament is held within a card shop, you won't be able to weigh the packs before you pick them -- or worse -- they may just HAND you your prize and give you no say.

Take the packs you just won. Weigh them. (They're your possession now, you can do with them what you wish.) Keep the packs that contain holos.

Your best bet is to sell the remainder of the packs to other players or on eBay. Just because your tournament organizer won't let you weigh the packs doesn't mean you are stuck with bad packs. (Unless you've been winning TPs, in which case you weigh them, open the heaviest, and eBay the rest for – you really have no other choice here.)


I. Miscellaneous scaling advice

Anonymous:
Don't snack. What I'm saying is don't buy 2 or 3 foils from 4 different partially filled boxes. If you can find a full box, strip it clean. You'll get 4 SR, 2 UR and maybe a SEC. I've skimmed many a partial box and come away with 12 SR, and crappy ones at that! Which leads me to my next point...

Be choosy about what sets you buy. Pick a set with good SUPERS in it. Get a set with SR that you need, or that are good trade-bait. In general, I avoid MRL like the plague. What do I want with ANY toon, toon world, MoP,BotL,Invader or any of that other junk in the set just to try to pull an AoD? I find LOD or LON a MUCH better choice. I'm also avoiding PGD because I can't unload ANYTHING but RoD/Don from this set and the chances of pulling them are small. The only reason I get any LOB packs at all is because 1 Exodia piece pays for the whole box pull (more or less). Everything else I pull from this set is dead weight (except Raigeki, but I have yet to pull one). I have a stack of Mystical Elf and Dark Hole's.

Don't get into a confrontation. If approached by the manager, make sure to smile and stay calm. Explain that all the packs cost the same, so what's the difference? But don't argue or cause a scene. One employee saw me weighing packs in a department store and got on his walky-talky and called the manager. I packed-up my scale, looked around the store for a few more minutes (the manager followed me from a distance) and then I left. There's no sense getting kicked out (banned) from a store I shop frequently. There's always greener pastures.

(Comment on the idea here: If the manager argues that you’re cheating customers out of good cards, ask them who gets packs more often. Usually it will be little kids, or parents of little kids. Young kids typically don’t know how good a card is, so they don’t even know about what they’re missing. The store still makes the sale, and that’s where the consideration should stop. If they tell you that you can’t weigh packs, and they’re NOT a specialty card shop, you’ll REALLY want to consider telling them you will get all of your YGO playing friends not to shop there for ANY reason. There is power in numbers.)


Submitted by TheProfessor:
Finally, try to make an unnoticeable bend in the cardboard if you're weighing blisters (like a small crease in the top corner of the packaging -- not the pack itself) so you'll know that you've already weighed it and it wasn't worth grabbing last time. That will keep you from re-scaling stock and drawing packs that are now heaviest, but weren't winners before.

My own little add-on, which should have been in a much earlier version – regarding investment vs. reward:
My own add-on:
Coming out ahead in the scaling world is usually dependent on you pulling a big hitter from whatever set you happen to be scaling. In addition, you're absolutely right that if you need just -one- card, you're better off eBaying it (barring tournament packs).

But just as a reminder to those with a little money vs. those with a lot of money -- the amount you save/profit goes up the more you buy.

Here are a few examples.

$75 budget:

Non-scaler: Buys a box of the new set, gets 1 Ultra, 4 Supers, 2 Ultimates, 17 rares on average, and 24 packs worth of commons (192).

Scaler: Buys a scale ($25), 11 scaled packs ($44 + tax). If done with booster boxes, will end up with 2 Ultras, 9 Supers, 0 Ultimates, 0 Rares on average. If done with blisters, you end up with 2 Ultras, 6 Supers, 1 crappy Ultimate, 2 Rares on average.

It's about tied here, tiebreak going to the scaler because they still have a $25 piece of equipment after the fact and still have about the same resale value worth of cards as the box buyer (less if the box buyer pulled the Ultimate Rare version of a big hitter.)


$250 budget:
Non-scaler: 4 boxes -- 4 Ultras, 16 Supers, 8 Ultimates, 68 Normal Rares + commons on average.

Scaler: Scale ($25), 52 scaled packs. Booster box scaling -- 10 Ultras, 42 Supers on average. Blister pack scaling -- 8-10 Ultras, 32-36 Supers, 8-12 Normal Rares on average.

At this point, it's HEAVILY in favor of the scaler; even IF the box buyer pulled a couple ultimate Phoenixes/Gear Golems/Horus 8's, you have so many more Ultras than they do that you probably got 1 or 2 of the regular version of it to counter that -- AND you have SO many more supers than they do, you have a better chance of having what some kid/inexperienced player wants so you can trade them for their high-value cards -- that, and there are a few good supers out there that still hold some value (Vortex, Brain Control) that you'll end up with more of.


Basically, the more you spend, the more you stand to make -- if you only put $50 or so into Yu-Gi-Oh every 6 months, you're better off taking your chances with a box. If you are in this game to win, to make money, to get an edge, then you're nuts NOT to get a scale.



J. Blister Packs
The Blister packs prevent a problem for many scale users that play this game. Sometimes, the cardboard on one weighs differently than the other. The plastic may be different, or bent. It IS possible to determine holo packs in blisters, but you have to be MUCH more careful than normal. If you have the ability to get a 1/100th of a gram scale, it will help you IMMENSELY. You may want to buy less of these; it’s better to miss a few foils than to buy a Normal Rare. Also, these have NO advantage over other Retail packs; these carry the Retail Secret Rare.

bbccards35 offers some VERY valuable insight through a scaling report of Ride of Destiny blisters:

Just got back from the friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart, where they got in their unlimited RDS blisters. It seems to be 2 different runs of weights: 23.7-24.3, and 24.4-25.1. I tried a little of both. Here's what I bought:

1-24.1-foil
2-24.2-2 foils
1-24.3-foil
1-24.6-foil
2-24.8-2 foils
1-24.9-rare (extra glue?)
1-25.1-foil

I think the 24.6 was a fluke weight. When I took it out of the blister, I reweighed it, and it was 13.4 outside. All the other packs were 13.6, except the rare was 13.3.

So you wanna know what I got?

Fusilier Dragon, the Dual-Mode Beast (rare)
2x Triangle Ecstacy Spark
Big Core
Divine Wrath
Tragedy
Thestalos, the Firestorm Monarch
and......

Mystic Swordsman LV6
The Creator!

I can confirm this "two different weight runs of Blisters" thing myself -- I saw it firsthand when weighing Soul of the Duelist blisters. If the two weight runs are that far apart, you can safely get the foils from both. If the two weight runs clash (meaning...one's 23.3 to 23.8 and one's 23.7 to 24.2, thus some of your 23.7s will be foils and some of your 23.7s will be rares), just go with the higher weight run, which is more concrete of a choice.

K. Tournament Packs
It is VERY rare that a player is able to weigh tournament packs, mainly because tournaments packs are only given out in hobby stores, a place you most likely can't scale. If you have access to Tournament Pack boxes you can strip out all the foils of, congratulations, you're one very lucky person!

I actually got to weigh TP4 once (I didn't get to keep the foil; I was allowing a card show vendor to prove the scale worked.) There were about 15-20 packs left; All were 4.8 grams except one that was 5.0. He opened it; Megamorph -- not great, but still a Super Rare. This proves a 0.1 gram scale should be accurate enough to weigh Tournament Packs.

ffseriesfan's scaling run on 5 TP5 packs got him 4 4.9s and a 5.1 (Magical Thorn). Again, looks like a 0.2 gram difference.

L. The stupid trick sold on eBay
Push the first four and the last four cards inside the pack down, leaving the rare card up. Take a piece of tinfoil and rub it on the top, it will come off imprinted with the name of the rare in the pack. This takes a while, and is best when you've bought a box, weigh out the packs, then see what ultras you'll get and open the good ones while leaving the bad Ultra/Secrets behind. Also, you can't figure out what Super Rare you'll get b/c Supers don't have imprinted names, but if you don't get an imprinted name then it's a Super.

M. OldWillKnott – your best friend
Many people keep asking me where I’d recommend getting a scale, how much should I pay…since SO MANY Yu-Gi-Oh players from Pojo.com have given this guy the thumbs up, myself included, I figure it’s time to add this section.

(EDIT:  He's under a new name now.  Will link later.)

N. The Gap Trick (Contributed by TheMan_KQJ, a dirty anti-netdecker)
As last time there's still a more descriptive way of using this trick. But first I'm going to put down the very first way how to use the gap trick first.

From a new box of YGO cards pick the 4th 7th and 11th from the top-left of the box. When you pick those packs go to the top or the bottom of the pack going vertical. Then push all the cards from the top down. There goes the pack. Whatever has the biggest gap has a holo in it.

Ok this is where you can find out what's in what. Ok when pushing the cards down have your index and thumb holding the top of the pack. It's like holding an Air-Head when shaking it to make it shrink. Well anyway use your thumb and push the cards down and bring your thumb back up where it was before. If the cards are near to your thumb then it's a rare most of the time so don't pick that pack. But if it has like more room between your thumb and the cards like a little then it's a super. Then it's get's bigger itf it's an Ultra and etc.

Yes you can use it when it's not a new box. But if you going to do it always pick the packs on the left side. That's where all the good cards are. IMO. And if the card shop that you go to can't let you pick then wait until the top of the new box gets slimed down and then aks him for a pack to buy. Then if it's really low like down to 2-3 packs then down then don't buy from that box. Well this is how you do the gap trick. This trick works about 75-89% of the time. Works on the sets from LOB-AST, and I believe DB1.

O. The Freezer Trick (crazy as it sounds, it WORKS!)
I heard a long time ago about this trick that is so simple. Take a box that you just bought, and put it in the freezer(yes, the divice next to\above\below the fridge and put the box in for an hour. Then take it out and without doing any trick, viola, the holo pack are a lot wider than the nons. No scale needed. I just tested this a while ago. Exmod, plez feel free to add this impratical tip to your holo pack tricks\glitches thread next to the Man KJQs gap trick. Hope it helps, Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good pull!

*NOTE: The packs in question should be left in your freezer for 10 minutes.
*NOTE 2: This may help you find ULTIMATE RARES that a scale could miss!

P. Ultimate Rares
Ultimate Rares for Soul of the Duelist are printed on a different stock of paper than other cards. This enables them to still be foil and not weigh so much as to let us scalers pluck a box clean.

Here's what we know so far:
Blisters: Ultimate Rares are in the LIGHTEST packs (Original theory by Senseker)
Boosters (Hobby): Ultimate Rares weigh Heaviest? (Original theory by ExMinionOfDarkness, would like confirmation from anyone else who has access to hobby)
Boosters (Retail): Ultimate Rares are not heaviest nor lightest, but in the middle. (Original theory by ExMinionOfDarkness, confirmed by Fiber Jarred's scaling run.) This could be a move on UDE/Konami's part to attempt to leave some of the foils in the box after a scaler's been there...but I think that's giving them FAR too much credit for having a brain.

Q. The Pojo.com Scaler Territory List
Always thinking of how to put Pojo.com board members above other users in the game of Yu-Gi-Oh, I created a list of stores that are frequently scaled by specific users. This allows Pojo users to know where not to scale, whereas non-Pojo users will go and buy those packs, thinking they have a chance at a foil.
This also allows Pojo users who live in the same area to easily negotiate which stores they will weigh at so that one Pojoer won't go to a store that has already been picked clean, weigh the packs, think they have the foils, and end up with rares.

The updated version of this file can always be found at:
http://members.aol.com/MewtwoStruckBack/ScalerTerritory.doc


R. No Scale, No Sale!
If you've gotten this far, you've read about the wonders of scaling and probably have a scale for yourself already. Ever gone to a retail store, such as a GameStop, Eckerd, or the like, and were told that you were NOT allowed to scale? Just tell them "No Scale, No Sale!" and show them this file.

I'm compiling a list of stores that people tell me that they were not allowed to scale at, along with stores I have personally run into this at. Just refuse to buy anything from the anti-scaling stores, and tell your friends to do so as well. If done right, the store will lose enough sales (on packs and other stuff as well) that they'll concede and let you weigh!

The list of stores that do not let users scale, and that should either be avoided or visited just to tell the offending employees that they are costing the store business, is at:
http://members.aol.com/MewtwoStruckBack/NoScaleNoSale.doc

Some miscallaneous non-scale tricks (there are so few because these are the only ones I was able to CONFIRM 100%)

MFC:
In 1st Edition Magician's Force all 6 boxes I got (3 - 24 count and 3 - 36 count) the holo's had a grey triangle on Yugi's left eye at about the 4 or 5 o'clock position. The secret rares and regular rares I pulled did NOT have the marking on them. (EMoD's note: This is correct. Secret Rares don't have the dots on them.)

DCR:
Upon reading this topic I ran to my wallet pulled out my Lucky(though it doesn't really work) first edition DCR wrapper, which i had pulled Exodia Necross from and compared it with a couple of 1st edition wrappers lying around in my extremely messy drawer. After careful examination I found that the necross booster has a very small black circle on the left side (your left) of yugi's head. where the hair seperates into differentdirections, (near the first of the three ligthning bolt yellow hair thingies poiting up.) their on the yellow part of exodias pink and yellow stripes, on the yellow stripe there it is.

(There was a picture of this, therefore it's verified.)

IOC:
There is a pattern to the holo's in 7 of the 12 boxes that I've opened. This is for 24pack boxes only. On the left sie the holo's were the 4th, 8th, and 11th from the top. On the right side the holo's were 1st, 3rd, and 7th from the top. Hope that helps.

(The user 'Sinister Serpent' was posting about the case of IOC he got all month for that one month. This hasn't been verified by others, but I'd seriously look at it.)

Flap Trick:
Flap Trick

The 3/6/7/11 trick:

This won't be true for every box. But for a fair number of boxes (including from older sets), this is the best poor man trick we have.

For sets without Ultimate Rares (everything Ancient Sanctuary and before), many boxes have their holos in the 3rd, 7th, and 11th packs from the top on each side.

For sets WITH Ultimate Rares (Soul of the Duelist and after), many boxes have their regular holos in the 3rd, 7th, and 11th packs from the top on each side as well. IF THIS IS THE CASE, the Ultimate Rares will be in the 6th pack from the top on each side.


The Bar Code Trick:
Submitted by ILoveYugioh (still needs verified by others!)

You want a easier way to get holo's which my sis and i always use (100%) always works.
Look at the bar codes on the back of packs. If you don't know this already the last 4 digits are the crucial ones, because thats how factory machines and people know how to pack them, when it has a shiny holo in a pack that is really rare eg. Anubis card.

The last 4 digits should be different, you should also pick up a few other boosters when doing this to check which bar code comes up least.

EG. For a metal raiders booster the holo card barcode on back of booster is 1406 for the last 4 digits.

But mind though because not many booster boxes contain secret rare cards so it rarely comes up, but when it does, you know your going to get a good card.

Hopefully this knowledge will ensure that none of you ever have to dirty your hands with a Normal Rare for as long as you continue playing Yu-Gi-Oh!

THANKS FOR EXMOD on POJO FORUMS for the info!!
WARNING:Do not copy this information without the consent of ExMod on pojo forums!
 

Veloci-T

Registered Member
Re: The OFFICAL HOLO PULL THREAD!!!

Hey, I got some tricks for Cybernetic Revolution and trick that could be done on all packs if you want me to post them
 
K

KillaKidd

Guest
Re: The OFFICAL HOLO PULL THREAD!!!

I Go Scaling About 3 Times A Week

Its Awesome

Kmart Walmart ETC.... dont care -_-
 
B

bbccards35

Guest
Re: The OFFICAL HOLO PULL THREAD!!!

Well, since I was quoted in this old version of the scale thread, I'll post!

Hit a Gamestop locally, and the dude (who looked like the lead singer of FOB) let me weigh 3 packs from each set. Not 3 weighed packs, but 3 packs hit or miss.

3 packs of FET...found one and set it aside
3 packs of CRV...hit one
3 packs of EEN...hit one

Then I got frustrated, gave back the FET and paid for the other 2......

Cyber Twin Dragon
VWXYZ whatever it is

I would have dropped $200+ there, but the guy was a penis.
 
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